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[COS
D'ESTOURNEL]
Chateau Cos D’Estournel is a second growth that is competing
globally, and rising among its peers as one of the most
powerful estates in Bordeaux. This is a St.-Estéphe property
that has, within the last 25 years, had its share of great
vintages, but since 2000 their wines have excelled to
greater heights. Jean-Guillaume Prats, CEO of this
impressive estate, has taken on the challenge of
re-structuring his creative team, and re-focusing their
philosophy, that now has them producing more concentrated
wines, the result of which has been consistently high
quality performances in recent years, anchored by the
magnificent 2003.
In 1999, at the age of 28, Jean G. Prats began running the
entire operation at Cos D’Estournel. He describes his wines
as exotic, spicy, and intense, evolving from a terroir of
gravel and clay that provides a critical defense against the
harshness of the driest seasons. It was this advantage that
helped to overcome the lack of water in years such as 2003
and 1989. In fact, it is the 2003 that Prats sites as the
property’s greatest vintage ever produced, eclipsing the
1982, 1961, and 1947, a vintage that was profound from the
moment it was tasted at the Primeurs of 2004, and one that
will set the standard by which all others from this property
will be judged for decades to come. Prats compliments the
most recent 2005 vintage as being in the same league as the
‘03 but admits that it is too early to tell if it rises to
the same heights as its recent ancestor.
Prats’ success in recent years is a result of a philosophy
that wine makers should have a forward looking mindset, to
be innovative, and to accept new ideas. Ever mindful of
maintaining consistent quality, along with balance and
harmony of a wine, he suggests that the most successful
estates add an element of modernity to their approach,
citing specifically Chateau L’Angélus, and crediting them
for introducing positive ideas to Bordeaux.
Since 2000 Cos D’Estournel has been bringing a more modern
approach to its wines, producing a warm and exotic taste
that can be enjoyed more immediately while not losing the
aging potential that so marked the style of its wines from
the 70’s and 80’s. He credits this to the more careful
techniques now used in the monitoring of the vineyards, the
extraction and maceration process, as well as the aging
process which includes the use of less racking and less
oxygen. The incredible amount of time, work, and dedication
that is brought to this new approach, Prats believes, may
produce a wine that is better by mere fractions in the
overall scheme of things, but it is those fractions that
show up clearly upon tasting and makes all the difference,
just as it would, he explains, for a race car driver to
spend years researching the most innovative use of oil and
tire traction to gain the one half second edge needed to
defeat his opponent.
The genesis of Prats’ move into new directions of wine
making was partly as a result of criticisms that he took as
to the quality of some vintages in the late 1990’s. To his
credit he used those critiques to take an honest look at
what the estate was producing, and he found that indeed
there where areas to improve upon. As a result he overhauled
his staff in 2002 and hired a new team that he believed
would lead Cos D’Estournel into a new era, one that would
take full advantage of the tremendous natural resources that
the estate’s terroir provides. Thus far the results have
been enormously successful.
Prats puts a noticeably positive spin on the modernity
question. While others believe that many in Bordeaux are
selling out, becoming a slave to commercialism, and
devaluing the traditional motives of wine making, Prats
instead believes that the new age has revitalized the
Bordeaux experience. Not frustrated by the current state of
affairs, he believes that the high estates of Bordeaux have
never been more well run, and have never had such an
attention to detail as they do now. In his view the next
10-15 years in Bordeaux will be marked by renewed interest
and investment and he predicts that the wines will achieve
new levels of innovation.
He has already proven that tradition and modernity can
co-exist peacefully and though Cos D’Estournel is a very
well respected second growth Prats believes that his wines
are in the same league as any first growth, particularly in
the past four or five vintages, however he is quick to say
that he understands that there is more to being a first
growth wine than just quality. He is very aware of the
history and prestige that goes along with first growth
status that takes some one to two hundred years to
duplicate.
Whatever the status of this vibrant chateau there is much to
look forward to. There is every reason to believe that it
will continue to be a main player on the Bordeaux wine
scene. With a philosophy that has been shaped by a fresh and
honest look at where the wine market has been and where it
is going, and a new and innovative team to help steer it,
Cos D’Estournel can be counted on to provide collectors with
a long line of quality vintages in the years to come.
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