[TERTRE ROTEBOEUF]
Article dated: 04/20/2004

Along the narrow and winding road my car struggled to climb and turn against the wishes of gravity. My thoughts were fixed on the spectacular view that awaited my eyes on top an arching hill situated on one of the many peaks of St.-Émilion. I was making my way to Château Tertre Roteboeuf, a modest estate that overlooks the vast landscape of this wine making region in Bordeaux. As I continued up the hillside the memory of bustling crowds, street noise, and the reality of a world that encroaches so harshly on one’s mind, began to fade deep into the background. Unconsciously, I made my last turn around the final bend, my eyes were quickly fixed upon the stone columns that highlighted the rustic façade of a peaceful abode. What struck me at first was not what I found, but what I didn’t find in this very modest place. There was no visitors bureau disseminating information, or even a reception desk confirming appointments. The usual trappings were replaced by a gentle greeting from an elegant man, Francois Mitjavile, who has made the land his home, the harvest his passion, and the berries his gold. In the short, but cherished, time I spent there I discovered the workings of an extraordinary estate, and was left with a lasting impression of a wonderful owner.

It only takes a few moments with Mr. Mitjavile to be inspired by the pride, passion, and knowledge that he brings to the land each day. His vineyard is located in an extremely advantageous position. On a hillside that faces the valley his wines are exposed to a great degree of sunlight while benefiting from the natural cooling process provided by the river on the opposite side of the divide. Of course, not all vineyards have the blessing of such a special location. However, as Mitjavile would tell you, great wines are not created by geographical determinates alone, it is how the care taker manipulates the natural conditions that make all the difference. When quizzed on how he gets maximum benefit out of the location that his vineyard enjoys Mitjavile explains, “the vines are laid low to the soil as to provide maximum heat to the berries.” His techniques have consistently produced fine wines although his location does limit him in some ways, Tertre Roteboeuf has only 14 acres of land and produces small quantities each year. Space is money in the wine harvest business and any disruption in weather patterns can significantly effect smaller vineyards. Mr. Mitjavile’s harvest this year was smaller than in years past, the killer heat wave that swept across France and other parts of Europe in 2003 resulted in modest sized berries.

The difficulties with the 2003 harvest did not dampen Mitjavile’s enthusiasm for the product, he described the vintage as “very exciting.” His energizing spirit was palpable and contagious. “I drink a bottle of wine a day, in some cases maybe more,” he said. This is an impressive feat, even for a Frenchman, I couldn’t help but be just a bit jealous of his ability to consume that much wine and while remaining so in command of his duties. As my tour of the Château continued Mr. Mitjavile was gracious enough to offer me a bonus tasting of one of the estate’s most enduring vintages. Disappearing into his cellar I was left to consider the fading taste on my tongue of the current vintage. A finish that was delightfully long and did not let me forget the exquisite ripeness that accompanied it. I was still lost in thought, trying to find the words to describe Mitjavile’s 2003 when I heard footsteps. He had returned holding a dusty old bottle with no label, just a sticker indicating one of the estate’s mature vintages that continues to age well, the 1985. With incredible richness, the wine is still holding together well. The opportunity helped to highlight the continuity of the vineyard over the years, which marks the essence of a great estate, the ability to make consistently great wines decade after decade.

It was a very satisfying trip up that narrow, winding, road to this special estate to meet this special man. When leaving I had the sense that the visit summed up all of the best reasons for making a trip to Bordeaux. Discovering the most interesting places and people that the region has to offer, as well as encountering the best of the old along with the best of the new. My memories of the 2003 tasting will be many, but my trip up to that rustic, peaceful, estate on the rolling hillside will supply the exclamation point to a truly fascinating experience.

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